Two phase hair conditioner compositions

ABSTRACT

A TWO PHASE HAIR CONDITIONER HAVING AN AQUEOUS AND A WATER IMMISCIBLE PHASE WHICH EVAPORATE AT THE SAME RATE, WHICH IMPARTS ALONG THE HAIR SHAFT VARIOUS HAIR TREATMENT AGENTS.

United States Patent 3,577,528 TWO PHASE HAIR CONDITIONER COMPOSITIONS Everett G. McDonough, Yonkers, and Walter W. Edman,

Port Washington, N.Y., assignors to Zotos International, Inc., Darien, Conn. No Drawing. Filed May 27, 1966, Ser. No. 553,278 Int. Cl. A61k 7/06 US. Cl. 424-70 Claims ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE A two phase hair conditioner having an aqueous and a water immiscible phase which evaporate at the same rate, which imparts along the hair shaft various hair treatment agents.

This invention relates to a novel hair conditioner and the novel method of using it on hair. More particularly this invention relates to a novel two phase hair conditioner, one phase being an aqueous phase containing a quaternary ammonium compound and the other phase being immiscible with the water phase.

Some hair is naturally difficult to manage and to comb in the wet state, while other types of hair have become so as a result of the various treatments to which the hair has been subjected, such treatments including permanent waving, dyeing, tinting, frequent teasing, exposure to various atmospheric conditions, etc. Hair that has been subjected to an oxidizing condition, e.g. treatments with hydrogen peroxide or atmospheric oxygen photocatalyzed by sunlight, is especially difficult to comb in the wet state.

Many products are marketed for use at home and in the beauty shops to obviate and overcome the difficulty encountered in wet-combing. However, these products usually affect the hairs ability to maintain a set or coiffure. They render the hair limp and soft.

Some of the cream rinse products which provide good wet-combing of the hair, contain quaternary ammonium compounds. Their use produces a dilemma; their effectiveness as a wet-combing aid is proportional to the amount of cream rinse retained by the hair, but the hairs ability to retain a set or coiifure is inversely proportional to the amount of cream rinse that remains in the hair. In other words, that which produces one desired effect interferes with the other effect. The loss of set retention is not overcome by the addition of greater amounts of setting agents.

It is an object of applicants invention to provide a novel hair conditioner which will provide ease in wetcombing the hair.

It is another object of applicants invention to provide a novel hair conditioner which, while being effective as a wet-combing aid, will not interfere with the hairs ability to retain a set,

Still another object of applicants invention is to provide a novel hair conditioner which can produce maximum effect as an aid to wet-combing hair, but which contains relatively small amounts of the combing agent.

It is a further object of applicants invention to provide a novel hair conditioner which will deposit upon the hair a uniform and thin film of components which achieve the desired ease of wet-combing.

Still another object of applicants invention is to provide a novel hair conditioner which contains combing agents, set-retainers, sun screening agents, color highlight agents, oxygen absorbers and/or nacreous agents.

A further object of applicants invention is to provide a novel hair conditioner which produces various ice effects on hair with lesser amounts of the various agents used therefor than heretofore would be possible.

It is a further object of applicants invention to provide a novel method of conditioning hair by preventing hair breakage, etc. as a result of combing tangled hair, by the uniform application to hair of a two phase hair conditioner containing an effective wet-combing agent.

Still another object of applicants invention is the method of conditioning hair, which has been damaged by exposure to oxidation treatments, by the utilization of a two phase hair conditioner which facilitates wetcombing of the hair and provides a sun screening agent to prevent further damage to the hair.

Applicants, however, have discovered a novel hair conditioner, which contains a quaternary ammonium compound, but which accomplishes both desirable features without the concomitant interference described above. Not only does applicants invention produce smooth and easy wet-combing, but at the same time it renders the hair amenable to coiifuring and to accept set-retaining agents.

Applicants novel hair conditioner consists of a two phase solution, which may be combined into one bottle or kept separately until they are combined just prior to application to the head. A water phase containing a quaternary ammonium compound in exceedingly low concentration and a wafer-immiscible liquid phase. The two phases are normally in separate layers.

Applicants have found that quaternary ammonium compounds containing total carbon atoms of 15 or more, especially where one of the alkyl group contains 10 or more carbons, are effective, The alkyl group may be saturated or unsaturated. We have found Alacsan* 7 LUF (oleyl dimethyl benzalkonium chloride), Arquad* 2HT75 (distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride) and Triton X400 (stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride) to be most effective and Alacsan is our preferred material.

Applicants have found that the concentration of quaternary in the water phase may be from 0.03% to 1.0%. The best combination of smooth combing effect and ability to retain a set is achieved when the concentration is between about 0.05% to 0.125%.

While it is possible to achieve the desired effect on the hair to some degree outside these ranges, there is a mitigation of the set retention, as the concentration is increased and below this concentration there is a decrease in the ease of wet-combing.

Applicants have found that the liquids comprising the water immiscible phase must have certain characteristics. They must be water immiscible and fast separating; the quaternary must be insoluble in them; they should evaporate at room temperature at about the same rate as water; they must have a pleasant, or at least inofiensive odor; they should not have any water solubilizing groups.

The number of suitable water immiscible compounds is thus restricted. Among those materials we have found satisfactory are:

HydrocarbonsThose fractions which are largely made up of the petroleum fraction distilling within the range of 345 to 525 F. This includes deodorized kerosene fraction which distills between about 400 and 500 F. One of our preferred materials is the so-called Iso-parafiinic solvent produced synthetically, especially one distilling between 370 and 410 F. Isopar* (99% saturated hydrocarbons-% isoparaffinic, branch chained, remaining cycloparaffin, naphthene, type) is particularly effective.

Although there may be some ketones, ethers or alcohols which may be utilized in the invention, we have found *Trademark.

these classes to be much less effective than the hydrocarbons.

The hydrocarbon chains mentioned above are lighter than water and will separate as the upper layer. However, certain higher specific gravity products have proved to be quite satisfactory. Chloroform or carbon tetrachloride can be used but compounds containing fluorine atoms are preferable, particularly from the toxicity standpoint, e.g. Freon 113 (trichlorotrifluoromethane) and Freon 11 (trichlorfluoromethane) EXAMPLE 1 0.1 gm. of Alacsan 7 LUF (50%) is added to water and q.s. to 100 cc. and to 25 cc. of this solution are added cc. of Isopar, forming a two phase, two layer hair conditioner.

We have also found that we can combine these water immiscible liquids, especially those that are soluble in one another, e.g. in order to achieve faster layer separation, by combining liquids having different specific gravities. For example, Isopar and Freon 11 in various proportions will give excellent results.

EXAMPLE 2 4 cc. of Isopar are added to 2 cc. of Freon 11 and the mixture may be utilized as the water immiscible layer in the conditioner.

We have found that there is a wide range of feasible ratio between the water phase and the water immiscible phase. A 0.5:1 (volume to volume) ratio will function as will a 30:1 ratio, but applicants have found that the most satisfactory range of ratios is 2 to 5 parts of water phase to 1 part of water immiscible phase.

If applicants water phase, which contains the quaternary ammonium compound, is used alone on hair, it will produce little, if any, effect on the wet-combing. The concentration of the quaternary is much too low. In those cream rinses previously discussed, the concentrations of quaternary are in the range of 2% to 5% The water immiscible phase, alone, is incapable of producing a mitigation of the difficulty in combing wet hair or any like effect.

When the two phases are combined on the hair, the results are phenomenal. The ease of combing is equal to that of a large concentration and retention of quaternary, but the hair is able to retain a coiffure as if there were no quaternary present. The two phases somehow interest to produce an efiect neither one alone is capable of bringing about, nor indeed any sum of the result of each. It is one of the most obvious and apparent manifestations of synergism. While the hair is wet with the conditioner the effect continues. However, having accomplished that which was intended, the water and water immiscible liquid are subsequently evaporated.

It is applicants belief that the water solution of the quaternary ammonium compound is absorbed quickly by the hair and that all of the surface of each hair fibre is coated by the strongly ionizing, substituted nitrogen group, held by the amphoteric protein structure of the hair. The large hydrocarbon group on the quaternary ammonium compounds, being hydrophobic, will protrude perpendicularly, like whiskers, from the surface of the hair. The water immiscible liquid, also being hydrophobic, easily and readily will be set and held evenly by these hydrophobic groups. The less emulsified the liquid, the more easily and evenly distributed will be the water immiscible liquid, which forms a gel-like film over the hair surface. The more strongly hydrophobic, e.g. hydrocarbons or halogenated hydrocarbons, the better the distribution and the more effective the gel-like coating, which serves as a lubricant. As a result, the separation of individual hairs, even those with damaged surfaces, is accomplished easily by combing. Hair breakage and discomfort, injury, or at least pain, to the scalp is avoided. An important feature of the phenomenon is that any chemical soluble in the water immiscible liquid is evenly distributed over the hair surface. Upon evaporation of the liquid the chemical is deposited uniformly throughout the hair surface. Thus the chemical will produce a maximum effect on the hair although present in minimum amounts. The hydrophobic Whiskers will protect the deposited chemicals from rub-off and removal by water, bathing or perspiration.

Applicants were also pleased that the hair was so uniformly treated by means of their invention. It appears that the water immiscible phase spreads readily and completely, carrying with it all the various components in the solution, and permits the use of very small amounts of components to produce effects normally achieved with much greater amounts of the components.

The nature of this two phase system is truly unique and versatile. It enables one to produce various effects on the hair simultaneously without the usual difficulty of one effect interfering with the other.

For example, a hair setting agent such as mannitol or polyvinyl pyrollidone and its water soluble co-polymers can be contained in the water phase, or it can be applied directly to the hair immediately after the hair has been treated with the two phase conditioner. The ease of the wet-combing will not be affected, nor will the setting agent be any less effective. The amount of setting lotion used would depend upon the desired degree of set retention.

EXAMPLE 3 Alacsan 7 LUF (50% 0.12 gm. PVP/VA-E635 (50%): 3.80 gms. H O: q.s. cc.

5 cc. of Isopar may be added to 25 cc. of Example 3 to produce the hair conditioner with set retention PVP/ VAE 635 (50%) has a molar ratio of 60/40 and a molecular weight 50,000. It is the copolymer of polyvinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate and is in a 50% solution in ethanol.

There are other materials which also may be contained in one or the other phase of applicants novel conditioner, or applied directly subsequent to applying the two phase conditioner to the hair.

Sun produces an adverse effect on most hair, particularly hair that has been bleached or dyed. A sun screening agent, such as 2 hydroxy 4 methoxy-benzophenone-S-sulfonic acid, can be added to the water phase of applicants conditioner, or it can be added separately in its own solution, while the hair is wet with the two phase conditioner. The uniform spread of the water immiscible layer will distribute the sun screen as well. A water insoluble sun screening agent, e.g. methylanthranilate or methyl salicylate, may be incorporated into the water immiscible layer, and the resulting film layer on the hair will resist removal by water, which would be encountered, for example, in swimming.

EXAMPLE 4 Isopara: 100 cc. Menthylanthranilate: 0.1 gm.

EXAMPLE 5 Arquad 2 HT (75%): 0.1 gm. Monoethanolamine sulfite: 0.05 gm. H O: q.s. 100 cc.

6 cc. of Example 2 can be added to 24 cc. of this to produce a hair conditioner having an oxygen scavenger.

Many blue colorants are used to counteract the brassy effects, which frequently are found in bleached hair. The blue color tends to drab the yellow coloration, even in naturally white hair. Either the water phase or the water immiscible phase of the conditioner may contain such a colorant, e.g. D & C Violet #2 can be added to the water immiscible phase and, when the conditioner is applied to the hair, it will be uniformly distributed thereon. In like manner a warm tone can be added to hair by use of a red color, such as D & C Red #17.

EXAMPLE 6 Freon 11: 100 cc. D & C Violet #2: 0.002 gm.

cc. of this may be added to 20 cc. of a solution of 0.12 gms. of Alacsan 7 LUF (50%) in water q.s. to 100 cc. to provide a hair conditioner with a color drabbing agent.

Highlights in the hair may be accomplished by the addition of optical brighteners, such as pyrozolinesulfonic acids. Oil soluble or water soluble light fast colors may also be added in small amounts. Unusually satisfactory results may be obtained because either an oil-soluble and/ or water-soluble material may be used.

EXAMPLE 7 Arquad 2 HT (75% )z 0.13 gm. Tinopal RBS200%: 0.1 gm. H O: q.s. 100 cc.

24 cc. of this may be mixed with 6 cc. of Freon 113 to provide a hair conditioner which provides the hair with unusual highlights. Tinopal RES-200% is identified as Color Index Fluorescent Brightening Agent No. 46.

Higher boiling liquids, such as higher fractions of mineral oil or esters of fatty acids, e.g. isopropylmyristate, which would remain on the hair surface and impart a high lustre or sparkle to the hair, may be incorporated into the water immiscible phase. Combining these agents with the coloring materials we can obtain unusual, colorful highlights.

EXAMPLE 8 Isopar: 100 cc. 7 Isopropylmyristate: 0.1 gm.

cc. of this may be added to 15 cc. of a solution of 0.13 gm. of Arquad 2 HT (75%) in water q.s. to 100 cc. to provide a hair conditioner which imparts high lustre to hair.

Applicants novel conditioner may also be used to achieve unique effects such as pearlescence, by incorporating a nacreous agent into the water immiscible phase.

EXAMPLE 9 Freon 11: 100 cc. Lunapearl z 1.0 gm.

7.5 cc. of this may be added to 22.5 cc. of a solution of 0.1 gm. of Alacsan 7 LUF (50%) in water q.s. to 100 cc. to provide a hair conditioner which will add dramatic effect to hair. Lunapearl is comprised of natural guanine crystals which occur in fish scales.

As indicated above, the applicants novel hair conditioner can be a one or two bottle system. If it is a one bottle system, the two phases are incorporated in the preferred ratios and in amounts required; if two bottles, they are mixed in an applier bottle in the proportions prescribed. In either event the two phases are shaken thoroughly immediately before using. The bottle from which the conditioner is applied should have a relatively small opening, so that the application is accomplished literally by sprinkling onto the hair. It is preferred that the opening be not greater than about 6 mm. nor less than about 4 mm., to insure the greatest ease of application and to permit the most effective interaction of the materials from the two phases. It has been found that one ounce of conditioner is suflicient for the average head of hair.

*Trademark.

Applicants conditioner may be applied to dry or wet hair but best results are obtained when it is applied to towel dried hair. It may be used, for example, after the final water rinse following a shampoo, rinse, permanent wave, bleaching or dyeing treatment. The conditioner should be shaken evenly throughout the hair, working it into the hair with the fingers and then finally combing through to insure even distribution. If the setting lotion is incorporated into the conditioner the hair may then be set and dried. If the setting lotion is not incorporated it may be added to the wet hair, combed through for distribution and then the hair can be set and dried.

The two phases of the conditioner evaporate upon drying the hair, leaving behind the setting film, the sun screen, the oxygen scavenger, the optical brightener, etc., all uniformly and evenly distributed throughout the hair.

What is claimed is:

1. A two phase hair conditioner wherein said two phases are normally in separate layers comprising the combination of a water phase layer containing a quaternary ammonium compound selected from the group consisting of oleyl dimethyl benzalkonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and a water immiscible liquid phase layer selected from the group consisting of a petroleum fraction distilling within the range of 345 F. to 525 F., chloroform, carbon tetrachloride, trichlorotrifiuoromethane, trichlorofluoromethane and mixtures thereof in which the concentration of quaternary ammonium compound in the water phase is from 0.05% to 1% and the ratio of the water immiscible liquid phase to the water phase is in the range of 1:2 to 1:5 in which the water immiscible liquid phase has an evaporation rate about the same as water.

2. A two phase hair conditioner as in claim 1 wherein said water immiscible liquid phase layer is a petroleum fraction boiling in the range between 370 and 410 F.

3 A two phase hair conditioner as in claim 1 in which the quaternary ammonium compound is oleyl dimethyl benzalkonium chloride and the water immiscible liquid phase layer is a hydrocarbon petroleum fraction boiling in the range between 370 F. and 410 F.

4. A two phase hair conditioner as in claim 1 in which the quaternary ammonium compound is distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and the water immiscible liquid phase layer is a hydrocarbon petroleum fraction boiling in the range between 370 F. and 410 F.

5. A two phase hair conditioner as in claim 1 in which the quaternary ammonium compound is stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and the water immiscible liquid phase layer is a hydrocarbon petroleum fraction boiling in the range between 370 F. and 410 F.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,543,061 2/1951 Rider et al. 16787 3,208,911 9/1965 Oppliger 167-87 3,215,604 11/1965 Biamonte l67-87X OTHER REFERENCES Thomsen, Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 86:4, April 1960, 3 pp. following p. 440.

Shansky, American Perfumer and Cosmetics, 802, February 1965, pp. 33-35.

Schimmel Briefs, #360, March 1965, 2 pages. Kluge, American Perfumer and Cosmetics, 81:3, March 1966, pp. 35-38 and 40.

glegasters Seventh New Collegiate Dictionary (1967), p. 7

ALBERT T. MEYERS, Primary Examiner N. A. DREZIN, Assistant Examiner US. Cl. X.R. 424-329, 350, 355 

